BS EN 568:2015 pdf download.Mountaineering equipment – Ice anchors – Safety requirements and test methods.
Introduction
The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard Q “ice anchors” (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisrne), which has been developed with international pa rtici pati on.
This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment (see Annex A).
1 Scope
BS EN 568 specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice anchors, i.e. ice screws and ice pitons for use in mountaineering including climbing.
2 Normative references
EN 566, Mountaineering eqz1ipment — Slings — SaJèty requirements and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
ice anchor
general tel-rn for ice screws and ice pitons
3.2
ice screw
anchor which is screwed into the ice and is screwed out again after use
3.3
ice piton
anchor which is hammered into the ice and is removed again after use
41.3 When tested according to 5.1, the eye shall have an internal diameter of at least 15 mm. Sec b) in Figure 2,
4.2 Resistance to hammering of ice pitons
When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.1, ice pitons shall not show any deformation likely to affect safety, e.g. cracks or separation of components. The impact area of the head shall remain sufficiently intact so as to allow further hammering.
NOTE Deformation due to hammering, as occurs with chisels, is not considered detrimental.
If the ice anchor has a sling for attachment, which is removable without tools, the sling shall conform to
EN 566.
4.3 Screwability of the ice screws
When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.2 after a maximum of 10 full rotations of the ice screw the penetration of the following rotation shall be equal to the pitch of the thread of the ice screw.
4.4 Holding strength
4.4.1 Holding strength in the radial direction
When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.3.1, anchors shall withstand a force of at least 10 kN in the radial direction, without being pulled out of the ice or breaking.
Permanent deformation during the test is permitted.
4.4.2 Holding strength in the axial direction