EN 893-2010 pdf download.Mountaineering equipment-Crampons – Safety requirements and test methods.
This EN 893 specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons preventing the user from slipping when used in mountaineering on snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents are Indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies, For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN 565. Mountaineering equipment — Tape — Safety requirements and test methods
EN ISO 6508-1, Metallic materials — Rockwell hardness test — Part 1: Test method (scales A. B. C, 0, E. F, G, H. K, N, 77 (iSO 6508-1:2005)
ISO 9523, Touring ski-boots for adults — Interface with touring ski-binding — Requirements and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply (see also Figure 1).
crampon
device fitted with spikes. which is intended to cover the sole of a boot, from toe to heel and from one side to the other, so as to provide grip on snow, ice and mixed terrain and which has a system of attachment to the boot
3.2
frame
part or parts of the crampon which bears the spikes
3.3
front spike
forward pointing spike intended for use when climbing steep terrain
3.4
downward spike
spike usually, but not necessarily, pointing vertically downward
3.5
binding
system of attachment to the boot
3.6
clip-on binding
particular binding which uses a lever mechanism for rapid attachment of a crampon to a boot
3.7
ball
stirrup-shaped part or parts of a binding used to connect the crampon to the toe and/or to the heel of the boot
5
EN 893:2010 (E)
3.8
attachment rings or eyes
rings or eyes which are threaded by a part of the binding when fitted in accordance with the manufacture?s instruction
3.9
adjustment system
system for adjusting the crampon to fit the boot
3.10
retaining system
system which prevents the climber from losing the crampon if the binding fails
3.11
spur
other spike than front spikes and downward spikes
4.1.4 All edges with which the user’s hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs.
4.1.5 If the crampon has a clip-on binding it shall be fitted with a retaining system.
4.2 Prevention against slippage
When tested according to 5.4.2, the crampons shall not slip on the ice more than 10 mm in each direction.
4.3 Strength
4.3.1 Hardness
Each part of the crampon, which contains a spike or spikes, shall have a hardness of at least 70 HRB.
Testing according to 5.4.1.3.
4.3.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes
When tested according to 5.4.3, the maximum deformation under load and the permanent deformation after removing the load, measured at the point of application, shall not be more than shown in Table 1. The breaking strength shall be at least as shown in Table 1.
Spurs shall be tested with a load app4ied in each intended direction.
4.3.3 Transverse strength of bails of clip-on bindings
When tested in the operating position and according to 5.4.4, the bails of dip-on bindings shall not break and shall not come out of the frame of the crampon. Permanent deformation is acceptab’e.
If the crampon is directly attached or integrated into a boot the transverse strength requirements are not applicable.
4.3.4 Strength of binding parts other than bails
When tested according to 5.4.5. each part shall not break.
4.3.5 Strength of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding
When tested according to 5.4.7, attachment rings and eyes and the appropriate part of the binding shall not break.
If the crampon is directly attached or integrated into a boot the strength requirements are not applicable.
4.3.6 Longitudinal strength of the frame
When tested according to 5.4.8. the frame including the longitudinal adjustment system shall not break.
5 Test methods
5.1 Test samples
The tests shall be carried out on the following number of test samples:
a) if the left and the right crampon are of identical shape: two test samples (one test sample for the tests in 5.4,3 and one test sample for the tests in 5.4.1 and 5.4.4 to 5.4.8):
b) If the left and the right crampon are of different shapes: two pairs (one pair for the tests in 5.4.3 and one pair for the tests in 5.4.1 and 5.4.4 to 5.4.8).
5.2 Test conditions
5.2.1 All tests shall be carried out at a room temperature of (23 ± 5) °C.EN 893-2010 pdf download.