EN 893-2019 pdf download.Mountaineering equipment – Crampons – Safety requirements and test methods.
4.3.3 Transverse strength of balls of clip-on bindings
When tested in the operating position and in accordance with 5.4.4, the bails of clip-on bindings shall not break and shall not come out of the frame of the crampon. Permanent deformation is acceptable.
lithe crampon is directly attached or integrated into a boot, the transverse strength requirements are not applicable.
4.3.4 Strength of binding parts other than bails
When tested in accordance with 5.4.5 and 5.4.6, each part shall not break
4.3.5 Strength of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding
When tested in accordance with 5.4.7, attachment rings and eyes and the appropriate part of the binding shall not break.
If the crampon is directly attached or integrated into a boot, the strength requirements are not applicable.
4.3.6 Longitudinal strength of the frame
When tested in accordance with 5.4.8. the frame including the longitudinal adjustment system shall not break.
5 Test methods
5.1 Test samples
Carry out the tests on two test samples:
— One test sample for the tests in 5.4.3, and
— one test sample for the tests in 5.4.1, 5.4.4, 5.4.5, 5.4.6, 5.4.7 and 5.4.8.
5.2 Test conditions
5.2.1 Carry Out all tests at a room temperature 01(2 3 ± 5) °C.
5.2.2 For any strength test involving non-metallic parts, condition the test samples for 1 h ± 5 mm in clean water of domestic supply and then for 4 h ± 5 mm at a temperature of (- 30 ± 5) °C. Condition the test samples in the operating position. Begin the test within 3 mm from removal from the conditioning atmosphere.
5.3 Test apparatus for bending strength on spikes
The load bar is for the bending test on downward spikes and front spikes.
The spikes shall be provided with a groove, parallel to the frame, as shown in Figure 3. The load bar for applying a load shall be compatible with the shape of the groove.
5.4 Test procedure
5.4.1 Shape, design and hardness
5.4.1.1 Check by visual examination and measurement, where appropriate, that the requirements in accordance with 4.1.1, 4.1.2, 4.1.3 a), 4.1.4 and 4.1.5 are met.
5.4.1.2 Check by visual examination of a person walking on flat smooth ice, wearing a suitable boot to which the crampon is attached in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and information that the requirements of 4.1.3 b) are met. Count the number of downward spikes which contact the ice during the walking motion.
5.4.1.3 Check the requirements of 4.3.1 in accordance with EN ISO 6508-1:2016.
5.4.2 Prevention against slippage
5.4.2.1 Preparation
Fill an ice container, large enough to receive a crampon, with water and store it at a temperature of (—20 ± 2) UC for at least 12 h. Smooth off any uneven surface of the ice. Condition the crampon in the same way.
5.4.2.2 Procedure
Carry out the test at room temperature (20 ± 5) °C within 10 mm after removal from the conditioning atmosphere. Clamp the ice container and place the crampon on it.
Load the ice without shock using a test subject (M) of 4Okgc M.c 100kg wearing the boot and crampon.
Apply a minimum force F in the forward direction in accordance with Figure 4. Calculate F in accordance with Formula (1):
Measure the slippage of the crampon on the ice when the force F has been applied for at least 1 mm.
Then apply the minimum force F in the backward direction and measure the slippage of the crampon on the ice when the force F has been applied for at least 1 mm.
5.4.3 Bending strength test on spikes
Make a groove in each spike, parallel to the foot base and at the distance from the tip shown in Figure 3 a). Mount the frame of the test specimen, without deformation of the frame, as close as possible to the jaw, as shown in Figure 3 b) to d). For front spikes apply the test load perpendicular to the foot base of the crampon. For downward spikes apply the test load parallel to the loot base oF the crampon. During the tests the load shall be applied in the initial direction ± 5°. The load bar shall be adequately shaped in order to not slip out of the groove.
If it is not possible to mount the foot base without deformation, cut out each spike, in agreement with the manufacturer, together with the appropriate part of the frame in a manner which does not affect the strength of the material and the strength of the base of the spike.EN 893-2019 pdf download.